19th Century
Corsets, Shapes & Figures around the turn of the 19th Century
The late 19th century has been seen by many as the reference point in corset development. The attention to detail, the complex construction, the degree of tight lacing possible, all were the result of long term development. Corsets have been with us for many centuries, interrupted by periods during which it was not worn. Usually these periods were, and perhaps are, proceeded by significant social changes, like war or revolution. But except for a few absences they have always there and will probably continue to do so. During the 19th century the corset developed with more and more elaborate designs with tremendous attention to detail. The designs improved to create more refined figures. The invention of using metal eyelets prevented the tearing of the corset during tight lacing. As a result of this and other mechanical improvements, it became possible to shape and reduce the chest and waist to a far greater degree than ever before. Towards the end of the 19th century, waist dimensions had become very small, with 16" to 20" being the goal for young fashionable women and 21" to 26" for the more mature. Contrast this with today's average waist sizes, which are 23" to 28" for slender teenagers and models and 28" to 34" for mature figures. But in all cases, the emphasis was always on proportion, and not just the smallest waist circumference, contrary to the myths that persist today.
During the late 19th Century period...
changing fashion stimulated the desire for tighter lacing, but not everyone laced down to 19"! Unfortunately the traditional Victorian corset style with the inward curved busk, when laced very tight, produced stomach discomfort, due to the heavy inward pressure in the upper abdomen. A French physician, Mme. Gaches-Sarrautes created a design with straight front busks, which remedied the stomach discomfort. This style became known as the "Health Corset", and although initially intended to reduce the inward pressure, it became clear that by having the spine in back, and the stiff busk in front, the waist could be pulled in even more than before, creating some of the classic S-curve shapes - see Camille Clifford. The new style was quickly adopted and corset makers made sure that they had a renowned physician's name associated with the new garments.
The use of the corset was also driven by society driven expectations, where social status required the presentation and maintenance of a proper and fashionable figure, which could only be achieved by wearing tight corsets. The standard range for off-the-shelf corsets was usually 18" to 30" for most common styles, and with narrower high fashion styles usually ranging from 18" to 24". Smaller corsets (16" to 20") remained the domain of the custom corset maker or corsetiere, simply because the tighter and more precise fit required consideration of the physical differences that normally exists between individuals.
Sports
Women's basketball, tennis, bicycling and horseback riding were conducted fully dressed and corseted, which did pose a limit on the level of exertion. The restricted lower ribcage encouraged breathing with the upper chest, which was deemed attractive. However, it was recognized that the corset provided valuable support for the torso and this enabled women to compete in sports that did not depend on flexibility at the waist. For example in 1907, a tightly corseted May Sutton competed in the US tennis championships and won. Before her, Irish Maud Watson, played tennis and won the inaugural ladies' championship in 1884 and '85. During both matches she was formally dressed and corseted, demonstrating that women who were used to being corseted, were less inhibited by the practice than is often presumed. Most of the inhibition was actually caused by the dress style itself. For example a promenade dress would only allow small steps to be made, whereas the dresses worn for sports allowed much more freedom around the legs. Removing the corsets during sports activity was usually discouraged, as it turned out that after a day of sports without the support, it would require a lot more effort to close the night corset. To address this problem, shorter corsets were developed, and by wearing these "sport" corsets (shorter on the hip) the wearer would maintain the upper torso and waist dimensions and avoid the nighttime struggle. It is interesting to note that a growing number of women horseback riders are returning to wearing traditional corsets again, to improve posture, and for abdominal and bust support.
